Perfect Motherboard

mattinahat

m@thue
Power User
I'm looking for a new motherboard. I am prepared to pay for quality (although not over $1000) and am not interested in SLI. Overclocking ability is essential, socket 775, 1333FSB... Look at my system specs if you need more info. I am also thinking of getting a GTX280 and 1000W PSU.

NOTE - THE $1000 IS FOR MOBO AND PSU
 
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My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    E6750 @ 3.6GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte P35 DS3
    Memory
    4GB 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    POV GTX285
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    19" Widescreen LG
    Screen Resolution
    1400x900
    Hard Drives
    2 x WD 500G
    PSU
    Coolermaster Silent Pro 700M
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120 LFB
    Keyboard
    Logitech EX110
    Mouse
    Logitech MX400
    Other Info
    Graphics Driver - 190.38
Hi Matt,

I recently got the GA-X48-DQ6 motherboard from Gigabyte. Among many other features, it has the latest X48 chipset from Intel, a 1600MHz FSB, and is easy to overclock with. I find it to be a great board. Plus, it is no where near that $1000 limit. ;)

GIGABYTE - Product - Motherboard - Overview - GA-X48-DQ6

Hope this helps,
Shawn
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Intel i7-8700K 5 GHz
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus XI Formula Z390
    Memory
    64 GB (4x16GB) G.SKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4 3600 MHz (F4-3600C18D-32GTZR)
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
    Sound Card
    Integrated Digital Audio (S/PDIF)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    2 x Samsung Odyssey G7 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1TB Samsung 990 PRO M.2,
    4TB Samsung 990 PRO PRO M.2,
    8TB WD MyCloudEX2Ultra NAS
    PSU
    Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W
    Case
    Thermaltake Core P3
    Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H115i
    Keyboard
    Logitech wireless K800
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Internet Speed
    1 Gb/s Download and 35 Mb/s Upload
    Other Info
    Logitech Z625 speaker system,
    Logitech BRIO 4K Pro webcam,
    HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M477fdn,
    APC SMART-UPS RT 1000 XL - SURT1000XLI,
    Galaxy S23 Plus phone
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Envy Y0F94AV
    CPU
    i7-7500U @ 2.70 GHz
    Memory
    16 GB DDR4-2133
    Graphics card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce 940MX
    Sound Card
    Conexant ISST Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17.3" UHD IPS touch
    Screen Resolution
    3480 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    512 GB M.2 SSD
I'm looking for a new motherboard. I am prepared to pay for quality (although not over $1000) and am not interested in SLI. Overclocking ability is essential, socket 775, 1333FSB (is that determined by CPU or Mobo??)... Look at my system specs if you need more info. I am also thinking of getting a GTX280 and 1000W PSU.
What is your goal? Is to overclock or is it to have the "latest greatest" hardware? Often, the two do not go together.

To be honest, if I were you (because I've never heard of a $1,000.00 OC mobo, and because I see you've already fried a few parts), instead of focusing on high priced hardware, I would focus on reading how to OC.

You "can" pay ~$350.00 for a DFI Lanparty X48 or an Asus Rampage, but if you know what you're doing, you can accomplish the same thing for ~$100.00. So... not trying to harsh or rain on your parade, but what is it you want to do?
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Fumz' Flux-Capacitor
    CPU
    E8400
    Motherboard
    DFI LP DK P35-T2RS
    Memory
    4GB G.Skill PC-1066
    Graphics Card(s)
    eVGA 8800 GTS
    Sound Card
    X-Fi XtremeGamer
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    500GB W.D. RE2 Primary
    1TB W.D. Caviar GP WD10EACS
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 610
    Case
    Lian Li Lancool K62
    Cooling
    Thermalright Ultima-90/S-Flex 120mm
    Keyboard
    MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
    Mouse
    Logitech G5
    Internet Speed
    2.5MB/430
    Other Info
    D-Link DGL 4500
Sorry the fried memory wasn't from overclocking but it was faulty. Whenever anything on in my computer is OCed my memory is always on a 1:1 with my FSB which means the RAM is effectively is underclocked.
 
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My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    E6750 @ 3.6GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte P35 DS3
    Memory
    4GB 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    POV GTX285
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    19" Widescreen LG
    Screen Resolution
    1400x900
    Hard Drives
    2 x WD 500G
    PSU
    Coolermaster Silent Pro 700M
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120 LFB
    Keyboard
    Logitech EX110
    Mouse
    Logitech MX400
    Other Info
    Graphics Driver - 190.38
...Overclocking ability is essential, socket 775, 1333FSB (is that determined by CPU or Mobo??)... Look at my system specs if you need more info. I am also thinking of getting a GTX280 and 1000W PSU.

Sorry the fried memory wasn't from overclocking but it was faulty. Whenever anything on in my computer is OCed my memory is always on a 1:1 with my FSB which effectively is underclocked.

Another motherboard isn't going to help you one bit if you don't know what you're doing. The P-35 is a very solid chipset and a great overclocker. You don't need a new board, you just need to figure out how to use the one you have. I would suggest you start here: Howto: Overclock C2q (quads) And C2d (duals) - A Guide V1.7 - OverclockersClub Forums

With what you already have you can get the most out of your cpu. New hardware isn't going to help you, understanding the process will.

Also, you do not need a 1K PSU... unless of course you're planning on also hooking up a mini-fridge and microwave oven to your machine? I know the hunger for a Hot-Pocket during intense gaming can at times be overwhelming, but... the big fridge can't be that far out of the way? :p
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Fumz' Flux-Capacitor
    CPU
    E8400
    Motherboard
    DFI LP DK P35-T2RS
    Memory
    4GB G.Skill PC-1066
    Graphics Card(s)
    eVGA 8800 GTS
    Sound Card
    X-Fi XtremeGamer
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    500GB W.D. RE2 Primary
    1TB W.D. Caviar GP WD10EACS
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 610
    Case
    Lian Li Lancool K62
    Cooling
    Thermalright Ultima-90/S-Flex 120mm
    Keyboard
    MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
    Mouse
    Logitech G5
    Internet Speed
    2.5MB/430
    Other Info
    D-Link DGL 4500
The $1000 was for PSU AND MOTHERBOARD. That was a mistake in my original post + I know how to overclock so thankyou for the guides but i dont need them. Recheck my specs and you will see i have changed them.

The P35 isn't that old (rev 2.1) and i got it BECAUSE it overclocks well. I got the E6750 for the same reason.

My original intention wasn't overclocking and the only reason i got into it is because the guy who ordered my computer (who also bought an identical - yes COMPLETELY identical - system) decided to overclock his...


+


The fridge idea isn't too bad. Do you know anywhere i can go to buy a PSU powered mini-fridge?
 
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My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    E6750 @ 3.6GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte P35 DS3
    Memory
    4GB 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    POV GTX285
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    19" Widescreen LG
    Screen Resolution
    1400x900
    Hard Drives
    2 x WD 500G
    PSU
    Coolermaster Silent Pro 700M
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120 LFB
    Keyboard
    Logitech EX110
    Mouse
    Logitech MX400
    Other Info
    Graphics Driver - 190.38

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    * BFK Customs *
    CPU
    Intel C2Q 9550 Yorkfield
    Motherboard
    ASUS P5Q Pro
    Memory
    8GB Dominator 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    XFX ATI 1GB 4870 XXX
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD 7-1
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1x 47" LCD HDMI & 2x 26" LCD HDMI
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080P & 1920x1200
    Hard Drives
    2x 500GB 7200RPM 32MB Cache WD Caviar Black
    PSU
    Corsair 620HX
    Case
    CM Cosmos RC-1000
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120, 2x 140mm and 3x 120mm case fans
    Keyboard
    HP Enhansed Multimedia
    Mouse
    Razer Diamondback 3G
    Internet Speed
    18.6Mb/s
    Other Info
    My First Build ;)
The $1000 was for PSU AND MOTHERBOARD. That was a mistake in my original post + I know how to overclock so thankyou for the guides but i dont need them. Recheck my specs and you will see i have changed them.

The P35 isn't that old (rev 2) and i got it BECAUSE it overclocks well. I got the E6750 for the same reason.

My original intention wasn't overclocking and the only reason i got into it is because the guy who ordered my computer (who also bought an identical - yes COMPLETELY identical - system) decided to overclock his...
+
The fridge idea isn't too bad. Do you know anywhere i can go to buy a PSU powered mini-fridge?
You're just going to have to forgive me my presumptions. 24 hours ago you asked how rated fsb speed was derived, "is that determined by CPU or Mobo??". 11 hours ago you said you were running your RAM at 1:1, then said doing this left your fsb, "effectively is underclocked".

Despite these two statements, which would have anyone wondering if you knew what you were doing, 9 hours ago you said you "knew" how to overclock and didn't need the guide. I beg to differ, I think you do need to read it, but it's your machine, suit yourself. Btw, 1K PSU = 1 kilowatt = 1000 watt psu. I understood you the first time you said the $1,000.00 was for both.

... and lastly, just in case you do decide on that mini-fridge: USB MINI FRIDGE
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Fumz' Flux-Capacitor
    CPU
    E8400
    Motherboard
    DFI LP DK P35-T2RS
    Memory
    4GB G.Skill PC-1066
    Graphics Card(s)
    eVGA 8800 GTS
    Sound Card
    X-Fi XtremeGamer
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    500GB W.D. RE2 Primary
    1TB W.D. Caviar GP WD10EACS
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 610
    Case
    Lian Li Lancool K62
    Cooling
    Thermalright Ultima-90/S-Flex 120mm
    Keyboard
    MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
    Mouse
    Logitech G5
    Internet Speed
    2.5MB/430
    Other Info
    D-Link DGL 4500
Btw, 1K PSU = 1 kilowatt = 1000 watt psu. I understood you the first time you said the $1,000.00 was for both.

Yeah sorry about that i was kinda tired and didn't really read through your post properly...

11 hours ago you said you were running your RAM at 1:1, then said doing this left your fsb, "effectively is underclocked".
Not FSB underclocked the RAM is underclocked and only while the CPU is overclocked.

When my CPU is running at stock so is my RAM and FSB. 2.66GHz, 1066MHz and 1333MHz respectively.

But when my CPU is overclocked it might be 3.6GHz with a 1700MHz FSB (dont know if that is correct but as an example it works) and RAM running at 900MHz.

Because 450*8=3600 and 450*2=900.

Don't think I'm calling you stupid by spelling it all out because I'm not. It is more for me to keep my thoughts straight.

Thanks for the fridge link but i live in Australia and i don't think they ship internationally. If anyone can find a USB fridge able to be shipped to Asia-Pacific region would they please give me a shout.
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    E6750 @ 3.6GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte P35 DS3
    Memory
    4GB 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    POV GTX285
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    19" Widescreen LG
    Screen Resolution
    1400x900
    Hard Drives
    2 x WD 500G
    PSU
    Coolermaster Silent Pro 700M
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120 LFB
    Keyboard
    Logitech EX110
    Mouse
    Logitech MX400
    Other Info
    Graphics Driver - 190.38
Not FSB underclocked the RAM is underclocked and only while the CPU is overclocked.

When my CPU is running at stock so is my RAM and FSB. 2.66GHz, 1066MHz and 1333MHz respectively.

But when my CPU is overclocked it might be 3.6GHz with a 1700MHz FSB (dont know if that is correct but as an example it works) and RAM running at 900MHz.

Because 450*8=3600 and 450*2=900.

Don't think I'm calling you stupid by spelling it all out because I'm not. It is more for me to keep my thoughts straight.

Thanks for the fridge link but i live in Australia and i don't think they ship internationally. If anyone can find a USB fridge able to be shipped to Asia-Pacific region would they please give me a shout.
With all the editing done today, it's difficult to figure out what it is you're now trying to say? Not to beat a dead horse, but it wouldn't hurt to read the guide; after all, how bad could current relevant information be?

Core2's don't clock the same way Athlons did. You do not need to concern yourself with running 1:1. Using a divider has no ill effect on performance; in fact, insisting on a 1:1 ratio will only limit your oc given 1066 RAM. Use whatever divider you have to to clock as high as you can.

Having the RAM run slower than 1066MHz, if done so you can get higher core clocks isn't a bad thing. Doing so also allows you to tighten the timings, which is also not a bad thing. You may very well find, like tons of guys before you, that a higher clocked core with lower clocked RAM with tighter timings makes for an overall faster rig.


Just fyi, at stock you're using a divider of 5:8 if your RAM is running 1066.

FSB : DRAM
1:1 = 333 MHz : 667 MHz
4:5 = 333 MHz : 833 MHz
2:3 = 333 MHz : 1,000 MHz
5:8 = 333 MHz : 1,066 MHz
3:5 = 333 MHz : 1,111 MHz
1:2 = 333 MHz : 1,333 MHz

FSB : DRAM
1:1 = 400 MHz : 800 MHz
4:5 = 400 MHz : 1,000 MHz
2:3 = 400 MHz : 1,200 MHz
5:8 = 400 MHz : 1,280 MHz
3:5 = 400 MHz : 1,333 MHz
1:2 = 400 MHz : 1,600 MHz

... of course, you knew all this already, so I'm not sure why I posted?
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Fumz' Flux-Capacitor
    CPU
    E8400
    Motherboard
    DFI LP DK P35-T2RS
    Memory
    4GB G.Skill PC-1066
    Graphics Card(s)
    eVGA 8800 GTS
    Sound Card
    X-Fi XtremeGamer
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    500GB W.D. RE2 Primary
    1TB W.D. Caviar GP WD10EACS
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 610
    Case
    Lian Li Lancool K62
    Cooling
    Thermalright Ultima-90/S-Flex 120mm
    Keyboard
    MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
    Mouse
    Logitech G5
    Internet Speed
    2.5MB/430
    Other Info
    D-Link DGL 4500
With all the editing done today, it's difficult to figure out what it is you're now trying to say? Not to beat a dead horse, but it wouldn't hurt to read the guide; after all, how bad could current relevant information be?

Core2's don't clock the same way Athlons did. You do not need to concern yourself with running 1:1. Using a divider has no ill effect on performance; in fact, insisting on a 1:1 ratio will only limit your oc given 1066 RAM. Use whatever divider you have to to clock as high as you can.

Having the RAM run slower than 1066MHz, if done so you can get higher core clocks isn't a bad thing. Doing so also allows you to tighten the timings, which is also not a bad thing. You may very well find, like tons of guys before you, that a higher clocked core with lower clocked RAM with tighter timings makes for an overall faster rig.


Just fyi, at stock you're using a divider of 5:8 if your RAM is running 1066.

FSB : DRAM
1:1 = 333 MHz : 667 MHz
4:5 = 333 MHz : 833 MHz
2:3 = 333 MHz : 1,000 MHz
5:8 = 333 MHz : 1,066 MHz
3:5 = 333 MHz : 1,111 MHz
1:2 = 333 MHz : 1,333 MHz

FSB : DRAM
1:1 = 400 MHz : 800 MHz
4:5 = 400 MHz : 1,000 MHz
2:3 = 400 MHz : 1,200 MHz
5:8 = 400 MHz : 1,280 MHz
3:5 = 400 MHz : 1,333 MHz
1:2 = 400 MHz : 1,600 MHz

... of course, you knew all this already, so I'm not sure why I posted?

Ha Ha. I was not trying to say i know everything about everything as ram speed does not consume my life.

Yes faster RAM does mean the entire system would run faster and therefore by having it (RAM) underclocked defeats the purpose of overclocking.

That said what truly defeats the purpose of a computer is a small fire coming from the inside of your case (yes my RAM runs rather hot inside my Antec 900).

As I am not of an old age such as yourself I have not yet the time to find every morsel of information available to me on the internet. That said thankyou for the information about the lack of necessity of the 1:1 ratio as i was unaware of this due to a collective view on many other forums i have read saying the 1:1 ratio to still be relevant.

You are only as knowledgeable as the information you have been given.

And i thought this forum was designed for the growth and expansion of knowledge... of course, you knew all this already, so I'm not sure why I posted?
 
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My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    E6750 @ 3.6GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte P35 DS3
    Memory
    4GB 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    POV GTX285
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    19" Widescreen LG
    Screen Resolution
    1400x900
    Hard Drives
    2 x WD 500G
    PSU
    Coolermaster Silent Pro 700M
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120 LFB
    Keyboard
    Logitech EX110
    Mouse
    Logitech MX400
    Other Info
    Graphics Driver - 190.38
cmon guys!!!!....

i can see this discussion going the way of the pear pretty soon....
lets keep it friendly.:D

a 1-1 ratio is good for an OCer to max the CPUs potential ...once this is achieved (depending on the RAM) you then select a multiplier for a higher frequency..

or you go the other way, keep a 1-1 ratio & tighten the timings to try & maximise performance at the stock frequency.

i have personally found 800mhz @ 4-4-4-12 runs faster than 1100mhz @ 5-5-5-15
but this varys from rig to rig

:)SK
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    ME.....
    CPU
    Q9450 @ 3.6ghz
    Motherboard
    P5K PREMIUM
    Memory
    8GB 1066mhz buffalo firestix
    Graphics Card(s)
    HD 5970
    Monitor(s) Displays
    20'' syncmaster
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    160GB 7200RPM SEAGATE BARRACUDA IDE
    160GB 7200RPM SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA 2
    PSU
    XCILIO 850w
    Case
    unknown ATX
    Cooling
    Arctic cooler pro 775
    Keyboard
    logitech EX110
    Mouse
    logitech cordless optical
    Internet Speed
    2mb
Twas but a merry reply to a merry post...

i can see this discussion going the way of the pear pretty soon....

I prefer apples but thats just me. (Joke not insult)

I found this board and it is pretty good.

EVGA nVidia nForce 790i SLi Ultra Motherboard (Supports DDR3)

I know is said no SLI but this is a truly impressive board. Dual Gigabit LAN, 1600 FSB and from what i have read it isn't a revamp of an older board but an entirely new chipset.

+

It comes from an Aussie site which means less shipping for me.
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    E6750 @ 3.6GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte P35 DS3
    Memory
    4GB 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    POV GTX285
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    19" Widescreen LG
    Screen Resolution
    1400x900
    Hard Drives
    2 x WD 500G
    PSU
    Coolermaster Silent Pro 700M
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120 LFB
    Keyboard
    Logitech EX110
    Mouse
    Logitech MX400
    Other Info
    Graphics Driver - 190.38
... Yes faster RAM does mean the entire system would run faster and therefore by having it (RAM) underclocked defeats the purpose of overclocking.

As I am not of an old age such as yourself I have not yet the time to find every morsel of information available to me on the internet. That said thankyou for the information about the lack of necessity of the 1:1 ratio as i was unaware of this due to a collective view on many other forums i have read saying the 1:1 ratio to still be relevant.
You're still not getting it. Using RAM slower than its rated speed in order to achieve higher core clocks is better than limiting your core clocks insisting RAM run at its full rated speed.

You're working without a full understanding of what you're doing. I recognized that and gave you a link to help you out. You don't have to scan the internet, you just have to be able to use your mouse. Again, click here -----> Howto: Overclock C2q (quads) And C2d (duals) - A Guide V1.7 - OverclockersClub Forums
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Fumz' Flux-Capacitor
    CPU
    E8400
    Motherboard
    DFI LP DK P35-T2RS
    Memory
    4GB G.Skill PC-1066
    Graphics Card(s)
    eVGA 8800 GTS
    Sound Card
    X-Fi XtremeGamer
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    500GB W.D. RE2 Primary
    1TB W.D. Caviar GP WD10EACS
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 610
    Case
    Lian Li Lancool K62
    Cooling
    Thermalright Ultima-90/S-Flex 120mm
    Keyboard
    MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
    Mouse
    Logitech G5
    Internet Speed
    2.5MB/430
    Other Info
    D-Link DGL 4500
I don't see how i am wrong in saying why underclock in order to overclock...

I know that higher CPU speed is better than higher RAM speed. In Memtest my RAM gets about 4GB\s and CPU (OCed) gets about (64K) 55GB\s and 43GB\s stock. Even with underclocked RAM (ie underclocked to 800MHz with tighter timings) i still get about 3.7GB\s which is enough to fill my RAM in just over half a second.
 
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My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    E6750 @ 3.6GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte P35 DS3
    Memory
    4GB 8500C5D
    Graphics Card(s)
    POV GTX285
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    19" Widescreen LG
    Screen Resolution
    1400x900
    Hard Drives
    2 x WD 500G
    PSU
    Coolermaster Silent Pro 700M
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    Tuniq Tower 120 LFB
    Keyboard
    Logitech EX110
    Mouse
    Logitech MX400
    Other Info
    Graphics Driver - 190.38
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