Solved Can't boot

[matt4x4]

HP Pavilion from 2007ish with upgraded PSU, graphics card gtx 650 and ssd hd. 2yrs ago.
Was fine last night.
Left on as usual.
Monitor blank, sub d with adapter. Got the slot on right side with pins left and right.
No signal. Unplug blew out dust on monitor plugs. Tried GPU card and onboard, same problem.
Turn off with back switch off plus unplug.
Turn on and same thing. No boot.
cpu fan and case fan sound normal for a few seconds then reduced rpm not normal sound of rpm. Low rpm.
unplugged old hd and cdrw
both hd have os have booted from both changing bios startup
cant even get into bios
no blinks on normal case power button
no beeps

will get air to blow out
will try ram reseat

nothing changed from usage, crept perhaps a virus from a shafy xxx site.
Ccleaner and malware bytes I normally use

this is coming from iPad so it's direct and to the point one fingering typing sux

 

[townsbg]

Your problem is likely either a bad/dead motherboard or psu. I would start by checking your capacitors. Blown, Burst and Leaking Motherboard Capacitors - A Serious Problem? - PCSTATS.com

 

[matt4x4]

How long do motherboards typically last?
Here is my system
HP Pavilion a6745f Desktop PC Product Specifications | HP® Customer Support
MSI MS-7548 (Aspen)
AMD Athlon X2 5050e
DDR2 PC2-6400 MB/sec

The desktop computer is always on, so would that degrade the longevity of the system?

Visual inspection of the motherboard reveals nothing to me.
Though thats with everything still in place as I did not remove any components.
Can not find any obvious leaks or puffed capacitors.
A dusting with canned air did not fix the issue. There was a lot of dust in there.

I have unplugged it overnight. Again no blinks, no beeps.
I will try a different outlet plug in the room. Doubt that will do anything.

There is a card I can buy that I can install and get POST codes, they seem to be around $15, but the delivery time is too long. Maybe computer store repair guy could shed light on it for same price.

I turn on computer and the CPU fan and case fan make normal sounds as a normal startup.
4 seconds later they still spin but much slower.


Well its only $300 for new parts. Mobo, cpu and ram.
I already have a few Windows 7 keys.

The major cost issue is I will have to buy Microsoft Office Home and Student 2016 for $140
or try OpenOffice and hope formatting errors on conversion wont happen.

 

[townsbg]

Most computers, to my knowledge, make a single short beep on normal startup. Multiple beeps and/or long beeps or no beeps is an indication of a problem. The beep code in itself is a POST code. I found a guide on what to check if there is no beep. Troubleshooting: No Beep No Video As for expected computer life, I have no answer but I think that never turning it off is contributing factor. You definitely have hardware failure somewhere. It's up to you to decide if it is worth your time to try and fix it or take it to a shop as compared to just getting a new one. However you don't necessarily have to buy a new copy of office. If you have the installation media and the key you should be able to install it on the new computer provided that it is 2007 or newer.

 

[matt4x4]

Well I just took the desktop computer into a store that fixes computers and sells everything needed, plus they have a chain of stores now, great prices. They said $50 for the first hour of troubleshooting but will be 5-7 days.

A few things I could have done was take out the ram and reboot.
Take out cards and reboot.
Disconnect cpu fan/cooler and reboot for a VERY short time, touching the cpu, if its hot its ok.

My PSU, GPU and HD are new. Maybe the high end GPU card on the old motherboard fried it. I do play World of Tanks online everyday for hours on end, its a single core game, but heavy graphics.

We will see what they say whats wrong with it. Maybe its just the RAM, but even then new DDR2 Ram is not cheap, around $25 for 2GB. But this will save buying Office.

I always had a feeling about this,
https://forum.openoffice.org/en/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=38581#p177147

There are some full retail MS Office 2007 for $80 on eBay, but I am hesitant to use their software. If the key is good, its good. If its not I get a refund. I cant find an official Office 2007 download anywhere.

I do feel an upgrade from PC2-6400 (800MHz) DDR2 (or 667MHz) to DDR4 will be night and day. Then with a LGA 1151 socket will be ready for a future cpu upgrade. The only question I have to find out is if I change my CPU then do I need to rebuy MS Windows 7 and MS Office. This would be a bummer as I would wait until I can buy a cheap LGA1151 that is currently $180 and in a certain amount of time should be half price. So I'd start out with a $80 Intel G4400 LGA 1151 2 core 2 thread then get an Intel i3 6300+ when the price is right.

 

[townsbg]

Again if you have a serial number for office you shouldn't have to buy it again. What version do you have? As for windows a cpu replacement shouldn't invalidate Windows although it might require reactivation. A motherboard replacement would invalidate windows if you have an OEM copy. You would need a retail key to install a copy on a computer with a new motherboard. Best case scenario, you are already using a retail copy and you replace the motherboard with the same model. You should be good then. How do you know that the psu isn't bad? Being new doesn't mean that it isn't bad. Did you recently perform upgrades? If so did you verify that your gpu was compatible with your computer?

 

[matt4x4]

So I paid $50 (min. payment) for an hours troubleshooting to the repair technician and it was found that the GTX 650 graphics card was/is too powerful for the old motherboard. The PCIe-16 slot. With the card installed it would not P.O.S.T. (boot/load), I am now using onboard video. I ran into a second problem, when booting into windows from logo and time cursor I got a D-Sub Out of Range 75.0kHz / 60Hz error message on the monitor. I pressed F8 and loaded into 640x480. I reset BIOS which messed up HD setting. Caught that quickly. Highest I can go is 1600 x 1200 but widescreen does work. So it looks fine. It was hard doing without computer for 5 days.

The plan is to wait it out another year until prices decrease, especially in the Intel CPU area. Big jump from G4400 at $80 to a better one at $250.

The only problem I have now is my USB mouse does not work. I have an old pin style mouse that works. Probably just the driver. Wireless keyboard works fine. Of note, before I could not use wireless keyboard to move cursor to safe mode, it would always time out into normal. I seem to have fixed that issue, I think I pressed F5 or F6 maybe F7. I always thought it was a USB thing.

 

[townsbg]

I apologize for the delay but I have been unable to reply to posts. According to the tech sheet for that card it requires a pci-e version 3 slot. Your motherboard might be too old for that. I'm not sure when it hit widespread usage but the specs weren't released until 2010. If you aren't using that card I suggest that card anymore you remove the drivers using driver uninstaller. After that reinstall the drivers for your on-board video. Display Driver Uninstaller Download version 16.0.0.2 If you continue to have problems using your monitor's native resolution it could be that your on-board video may not be capable of using it. Without knowing exactly what the on-board video is I can't investigate that further.

 

[matt4x4]

Thanks for that, I never thought about doing that (Uninstall GTX650 and re-install onboard Integrated graphics using ATI Radeon™ HD 3200 (Supports DirectX® 10)) I will do that now.

The resolution and screen seem to be working fine now with the onboard video chip.
The GTX650 did work for about a year on this old system from 2008.
I dont believe I ever uninstalled the old, stock video drivers. But its easy for me to find, as I did my first BIO's update recently.
It has One PCI-e x16 slot and 3 PCI-e x1 which I got from the HP website